Reed loom ki kanghi hai. Uska har khaana (dent) ek jagah hai jahan se tane ke taar guzarte hain. Reed batata hai tana kitna ghana hoga; pick batata hai vana kitna ghana hoga. Dono milke kapde ki quality aur weight tay karte hain. Is guide mein reed se ends ka poora hisaab.
Chaar number chahiye
- Reed count — kitne dent. Dhyaan do: per 1 inch hai ya per 2 inch (Stockport tareeka). Surat mein dono milte hain.
- Ek dent mein taar — aksar 2, kabhi 1, 3 ya 4.
- Panna (reed space) — reed pe tana kitni chaudai mein faila hai, inch mein. Yeh grey kapde ki chaudai se thoda zyada hota hai.
- Kinare ke taar (selvedge) — dono kinaro ke extra taar.
Body ke taar = EPI × panna
Kul taar = body ke taar + kinare ke taar
Udaharan 1 — reed per inch
Reed 72 dent per inch, ek dent mein 2 taar, panna 58 inch, kinare ke 64 taar (32 + 32).
- EPI: 72 × 2 ÷ 1 = 144
- Body: 144 × 58 = 8,352
- Kul: 8,352 + 64 = 8,416 taar
Udaharan 2 — reed per 2 inch
Reed 120 (2 inch mein), ek dent mein 2 taar, panna 63 inch, kinare ke 48 taar.
- EPI: 120 × 2 ÷ 2 = 120
- Body: 120 × 63 = 7,560
- Kul: 7,560 + 48 = 7,608 taar
Isi reed ko per inch maan liya toh EPI 240 aur kul 15,168 taar — dugne. Beam aur costing dono galat.
Apne number reed se ends calculator mein daalo — wahan "1 inch" ya "2 inch" chun sakte ho.
Kinare ke taar ka dhyaan
Kinare mazboot banane ke liye wahan ke dent mein aksar zyada taar daalte hain (jaise 4). Agar woh dent panne ke andar hi hain, toh unke 2-2 taar body mein pehle se gin liye gaye — sirf extra taar jodo. Jaise har taraf 8 dent mein 4 taar: extra = 8 × (4 − 2) × 2 taraf = 32.
Metric reed
Kuch reed pe dent per 10 cm likha hota hai. 10 cm = 3.937 inch, toh 250 dent / 10 cm = 250 ÷ 3.937 = 63.5 dent per inch.
Ulta hisaab: ends se reed
Beam card pe kul taar likhe hain aur reed pata karna hai:
8,200 taar, 80 kinare ke, panna 65.5, 2 taar per dent: (8,200 − 80) ÷ 65.5 ÷ 2 = 61.98 → 62 reed. Jawab poore number ke paas na aaye toh panna ya dent ke taar dobara check karo.
Pick ka kaam
Pick (PPI) ek inch kapde mein vane ke dhaage hain. Ends tana ka vajan tay karte hain, pick vane ka. Isi liye costing mein dono alag aate hain:
Vana kg / 100 m = pick × panna × vana denier ÷ 90,000
Udaharan — ends se weight tak
Udaharan 1 ke 8,416 taar, 75 denier tana, 8% crimp; vana 150 denier, 52 pick, panna 58 inch; grey chaudai 56 inch.
- Tana: 8,416 × 75 × 1.08 ÷ 90,000 = 7.57 kg / 100 m
- Vana: 52 × 58 × 150 ÷ 90,000 = 5.03 kg / 100 m
- Kul 12.60 kg / 100 m → GLM 126 → 56 inch (1.42 m) pe lagbhag 89 GSM
Agar 2-inch wali galti se 15,168 taar le liye hote, toh tana akela 13.65 kg aata. GSM aur taka weight ka poora hisaab taka ka weight guide mein, aur calculator Fabric Weight & GSM.
Aam galtiyaan
- Per inch aur per 2 inch mix. Reed wale se ya reed ke label se pakka karo. Galti hui toh taar seedhe dugne ya aadhe.
- Grey chaudai se taar nikalna. Taar reed space (panna) pe nikalte hain, kapde ki chaudai pe nahi.
- Dent ko taar samajhna. 72 reed ka matlab 72 dent; 2 taar per dent pe 144 taar per inch.
- Kinare ke taar do baar ginna. Upar dekho — sirf extra taar jodo.
- Pick ko vane ka denier samajhna. Pick ghanapan hai, denier motai. Dono alag number hain.
Loomiro mein
Loomiro mein har quality ka reed, pick, panna aur taar ek baar quality master mein jaata hai. Costing mein quality chunte hi yeh sab apne aap bhar jaate hain, aur taar khaali ho toh reed × panna se le liya jaata hai. Wahi taar beam ka vajan aur yarn ka kharcha nikalne mein lagte hain — beam ka vajan beam ka vajan guide mein.