Surat ke har weaving unit mein taka utarte hi kante pe chadhta hai. Lekin sirf weight likh lena kaafi nahi — dekhna padta hai ki woh weight quality ke hisaab se sahi hai ya nahi. Agar pick kam lag rahe hain, vana patla aa gaya ya tana zyada sikud raha hai, toh weight sabse pehle batata hai. Is guide mein dekhenge ki construction se weight kaise nikalta hai, aur kante wale taka se ulta hisaab kaise hota hai.
Weight do hisson se banta hai: tana aur vana
Kapde ka weight = tane ka weight + vane ka weight. Dono ka base ek hi baat hai: denier = 9,000 meter dhaage ka weight gram mein. Isliye har formula mein 9,000 aata hai.
Tana (warp)
100 meter kapde mein har taar lagbhag 100 meter ka hota hai — plus crimp, kyunki tana vane ke upar-neeche ghoom ke chalta hai. Sheet mein isko WST likhte hain: WST 110 matlab 10% extra tana.
Vana (weft)
Ek inch kapde mein jitne pick, utni baar vana panne ki poori chaudai mein jaata hai. 1 meter = 39.37 inch aur 1 inch = 0.0254 meter, isliye 1 meter kapde mein vane ki lambai lagbhag pick × panna meter hoti hai.
Vana kg / 100 m = pick × panna (inch) × vana denier ÷ 90,000
Kapda kg / 100 m = tana + vana
GLM (gram / meter) = kg / 100 m × 10
GSM = GLM ÷ chaudai (meter) · chaudai meter = inch × 0.0254
Ek taka kg = kg / 100 m × taka cut ÷ 100
Udaharan
Quality: 8,200 taar, tana 60 denier, WST 110 (10% crimp); vana 150 denier, 50 pick, panna 65.5 inch. Kapde ki chaudai 63 inch, taka cut 117 meter.
- Tana: 8,200 × 60 × 1.10 ÷ 90,000 = 6.01 kg / 100 m
- Vana: 50 × 65.5 × 150 ÷ 90,000 = 5.46 kg / 100 m
- Kapda: 6.01 + 5.46 = 11.47 kg / 100 m, yaani GLM 114.7 g / m
- GSM: 114.7 ÷ (63 × 0.0254 = 1.60 m) = lagbhag 72 GSM
- Ek taka: 11.47 × 117 ÷ 100 = 13.42 kg
Yahi number Fabric Weight & GSM calculator mein daal ke step-by-step dekh sakte ho, aur yarn kharcha ke saath Fabric Costing mein.
Ulta hisaab: kante wale taka se GLM
Taka ka meter aur kg pata ho toh construction ki zaroorat nahi:
kg / 100 m = kg ÷ meter × 100
GSM = GLM ÷ chaudai (meter)
Udaharan
Upar wali quality ka 117 meter ka taka kante pe 12.60 kg aaya. GLM = 12,600 ÷ 117 = 107.7 g / m, yaani 10.77 kg / 100 m. Standard 11.47 tha — taka 6.1% halka hai. Doosra taka 13.90 kg aaya: 11.88 kg / 100 m, sirf 3.6% bhaari — chalega.
6% halka taka aksar matlab: pick kam lag rahe hain, vana ka denier patla aaya hai, ya meter galat naapa gaya. Ek-do taka mein fark ho toh naap check karo; poore loom pe lagaataar ho toh loom ka pick setting aur yarn lot check karo.
Aam galtiyaan
- Panna aur chaudai mix karna. Vane ke formula mein panna (reed space) aata hai; GSM mein kapde ki asli chaudai. Grey kapda reed space se thoda kam chauda hota hai.
- Crimp bhool jaana. WST 100 maan liya toh tane ka weight kam aayega aur har taka "bhaari" dikhega.
- Count ko denier samajhna. 30s cotton count 30 denier nahi, 177 denier hai. Pehle denier vs count padh lo.
- Selvedge (kinare ke taar) chhodna. Taar ginte waqt kinare ke taar bhi jodo — reed aur panne se taar nikal sakte ho.
- Size aur moisture. Sized tana aur geela kapda thoda bhaari aata hai. Ek hi tarah ka taka, ek hi tarah tolo.
Loomiro mein yeh kaam kaise hota hai
Loomiro mein har quality ka reed, pick, panna, taar, yarn aur standard weight / 100 m ek baar master mein jaata hai. Taka Entry mein loom, meter aur weight daalte hi avg / 100 m apne aap nikalta hai, aur standard se 5% se zyada fark ho toh wahin warning aati hai — mahine ke end mein nahi, usi shift mein. Taka Register mein loom, beam aur quality ke filter se dekh sakte ho ki halke taka kis loom ya kis beam se aa rahe hain.
Beam se kitne taka aur kitna kapda banega, yeh Beam → Taka calculator mein dekho. Aur kisi bhi nayi quality ka weight bhaav dene se pehle GSM calculator se nikal lo.
Formula se aaya weight "ideal" hai. Asli taka mein sizing, moisture aur finishing ka thoda fark aata hai — isliye 2–5% ka fark aam baat hai, apne unit ka normal fark khud tay karo.