Beam card pe meter likha hota hai, party ka order taka mein hota hai, aur dono ke beech mein ek chhupi cheez hai: crimp. Tana vane ke upar-neeche ghoom ke chalta hai, isliye 9,000 meter tane se 9,000 meter kapda nahi banta — thoda kam banta hai. Is guide mein beam se taka ka poora hisaab.
Teen number chahiye
- Beam meter — beam pe tane ki lambai (beam card se).
- Crimp % / WST — tana kapde se kitna lamba lagta hai. WST 108 = 8% crimp. Agar beam card ka meter pehle se kapde ka meter hai, toh crimp 0 rakho.
- Taka cut — ek taka kitne meter ka kaatna hai (jaise 110, 117, 120 m).
Poore taka = kapda meter ÷ taka cut (sirf poora number)
Aakhri chhota taka = kapda meter − poore taka × taka cut
Beam ke yarn ka kg = taar × denier × beam meter ÷ 90,00,000
Udaharan 1
Beam 9,000 meter, crimp 0 (meter kapde ka hi maana), taka cut 117 m, 8,200 taar × 60 denier.
- Kapda: 9,000 ÷ 1.00 = 9,000 m
- Taka: 9,000 ÷ 117 = 76.9 → 76 poore taka
- Aakhri taka: 9,000 − 76 × 117 = 9,000 − 8,892 = 108 m
- Beam ka yarn: 8,200 × 60 × 9,000 ÷ 90,00,000 = 492 kg
Udaharan 2 — crimp ke saath
Wahi beam, lekin is quality mein 8% crimp (WST 108).
- Kapda: 9,000 ÷ 1.08 = 8,333.33 m
- Taka: 8,333.33 ÷ 117 = 71.2 → 71 poore taka
- Aakhri taka: 8,333.33 − 8,307 = 26.33 m
Crimp bhoolne se plan mein 5 taka zyada dikhte — party ko 76 ka vaada aur haath mein 71.
Apne beam ke number Beam → Taka calculator mein daalo; har step aapke number ke saath dikhta hai.
Taka cut ka asar
Wahi 8,333.33 meter kapda alag-alag cut pe:
| Taka cut | Poore taka | Aakhri taka |
|---|---|---|
| 110 m | 75 | 83.3 m |
| 115 m | 72 | 53.3 m |
| 117 m | 71 | 26.3 m |
| 120 m | 69 | 53.3 m |
Cut aksar party tay karti hai. Lekin pehle se pata ho ki aakhri taka 26 meter ka bachega, toh use short length ki tarah bechne ka ya agle order mein lagane ka plan pehle ban jaata hai.
Apne unit ka crimp kaise nikale
Pichle beam ka hisaab sabse achha guru hai. Jitne meter ka beam tha aur usse kul kitne meter kapda utra, usse:
Jaise 9,000 meter ke beam se kul 8,350 meter kapda utra: (9,000 ÷ 8,350 − 1) × 100 = 7.8%. Har quality ka crimp alag hota hai — pick zyada, crimp zyada.
Dhyaan rakhne ki baatein
- Beam ka aakhri hissa. Beam khatam hone pe kuch meter tana beam aur heald ke beech bach jaata hai, aur shuru mein jodne mein bhi kuch jaata hai. Apne unit ka andaaza beam meter se ghata ke daalo.
- Doosra beam. Border ya patta ka alag beam ho toh uska hisaab alag karo — taka main beam se hi ginte hain.
- Vane ka yarn bhi. Poore beam ke liye vana = pick × panna × vana denier × kapda meter ÷ 90,00,000. 50 pick, 65.5 inch, 150 denier aur 9,000 m pe yeh 491.25 kg aata hai. Yarn aur kharcha dono Fabric Costing ke Beam tab mein.
- Taka ka weight. Har taka kitne kg ka aana chahiye, yeh Fabric Weight & GSM mein nikalo — kante pe fark aaye toh turant pata chalega.
Loomiro mein
Loomiro ke Bhidan mein beam ko loom pe chadhate waqt taka cut daalo — expected taka aur meter turant dikh jaate hain. Doosra beam (border / patta) aur spreader, pasar, dropper ka kharcha bhi usi entry mein. Phir har Taka Entry ke saath expected vs bana hua milta rehta hai, aur jab beam khatam hone wala ho toh dashboard pe "beam khatam hone wale" mein woh loom aa jaata hai — agla beam pehle se taiyaar. Beam Stock mein har beam ka weight apne aap: taar × meter × denier ÷ 90,00,000, aur beam card print bhi.
Agla beam chadhane se pehle Beam → Taka calculator se ek baar dekh lo kitne taka banenge.