Grey kapda process house (mill) mein dhulai, dyeing, heat-set aur finishing se guzarta hai. Is mein kapda lambai mein thoda sikudta hai. Yeh sikudna rokna mushkil hai, lekin naapna aasaan hai — aur jo naapta hai, wahi mill se baat kar sakta hai.
Formula
Shrinkage % = kam aaya ÷ grey meter × 100
Normal se zyada (m) = kam aaya − grey meter × normal%
Hamesha grey meter se bhaag do, finished se nahi. 1,000 grey aur 940 finished pe shrinkage 6.0% hai, 6.38% nahi.
Kitna normal hai?
Iska ek number nahi hai — aapke kapde aur mill ke hisaab se badalta hai. Neeche sirf ek moti range hai:
| Kapda | Aam range (lambai mein) |
|---|---|
| Flat polyester filament, plain ya satin | kam — lagbhag 2–6% |
| Textured, spun ya viscose wala kapda | beech ka — lagbhag 4–10% |
| High-twist yarn (crepe, georgette jaisa) | zyada — 10% se upar bhi ho sakta hai |
Process bhi farak daalta hai: kitni garmi pe set kiya, stenter pe kitna khincha, kitni baar dhoya. Isliye sabse achha "normal" aapka apna data hai — ek quality ke pichle 8–10 lot ka shrinkage dekho aur wahi normal maano.
Har challan pe track karo
Mill ko challan pe taka no. aur har taka ka grey meter jaata hai. Maal wapas aaye toh usi challan ke saamne, taka-wise finished meter likho, mill ka lot no. bhi. Mahine ke end mein ek total se kuch pata nahi chalta.
Udaharan — do mill, chaar challan, normal 5%
| Challan | Taka | Grey m | Finished m | Kam m | Shrinkage | Normal se zyada |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| A · Mill X | 12 | 1,404 | 1,335 | 69 | 4.91% | 0 |
| B · Mill X | 10 | 1,170 | 1,113 | 57 | 4.87% | 0 |
| C · Mill Y | 11 | 1,287 | 1,201 | 86 | 6.68% | 21.65 m |
| D · Mill Y | 2 | 234 | 222 | 12 | 5.13% | 0.30 m |
- Challan C: normal 5% pe 1,287 × 5% = 64.35 m kam chalta. Aaya 86 m — 21.65 m zyada.
- Mill X: 126 ÷ 2,574 = 4.90% — theek.
- Mill Y: 98 ÷ 1,521 = 6.44%, normal se kul 21.95 m zyada. Is meter ko apne finished rate se guna karo — woh ek mahine ka nuksaan hai, ek mill se.
Ek challan ke number shrinkage calculator mein daal ke dekh sakte ho.
Shrinkage zyada aaye toh kya check karein
- Naap ek jaisa hai? Aapne taka kaise naapa aur mill ne kaise — haath se, folding machine pe, khincha hua ya dheela. Do alag tareeke 1–2% ka fark aaram se bana dete hain.
- Saare taka wapas aaye? Fent, cut-piece ya rejected taka alag aate hain. Inko ginti mein lo, warna shrinkage bada dikhega.
- Taka-wise dekho. Ek-do taka bahut zyada kam hain toh woh kapde ki problem ya cut-piece hai; poore lot mein barabar hai toh process ki.
- Quality badli? Pick badhe, yarn ka lot ya twist badla — grey hi alag hai toh shrinkage bhi alag.
- Process badla? Mill se lot ka process poochho — temperature, dhulai, finish. Wahi quality doosri mill pe kitna aata hai, milao.
Aam galtiyaan
- Finished meter se bhaag dena. Hamesha grey meter se.
- Challan ka % ka seedha average. Mill Y ka (6.68 + 5.13) ÷ 2 = 5.91% aata hai, jabki asli 6.44% hai. Kul kam ÷ kul grey lo.
- Ek normal sab quality pe. Har quality ka normal alag rakho.
- Width bhool jaana. Kapda chaudai mein bhi sikudta hai. Yeh guide lambai ki baat karti hai; finished panna party ki demand se milao.
Loomiro mein
Loomiro ke Mill & Job Work mein grey taka challan se mill jaate hain, aur wapas aate waqt har taka ka finished meter aur mill ka lot no. daalte ho. Har quality ka normal shrinkage % quality master mein jaata hai. Shrinkage Report period aur mill ke filter ke saath mill-wise, quality-wise, challan / lot-wise aur taka-wise grey vs finished dikhata hai — normal se zyada kitne meter kam aaye, aur pichle 6 mahine ke sale rate se uska ₹. Sabse zyada shrinkage wali mill upar alag se dikhti hai, jis quality mein normal % nahi bhara uski yaad dilaata hai, aur "Mill mein pada" mein dikhta hai kaunsa maal 0–15, 16–30, 31–60 ya 60+ din se mill pe hai.
Mill challan aur job work ke GST ke liye ITC-04 guide padho.
Upar ki range sirf andaaza hai. Apni har quality aur har mill ka normal apne pichle lot se tay karo.